www.thebrowacademy.co.uk
ADVANCED BËBË HENNA BROWS
TRAINING HANDBOOK
DATENAME
UP YOUR
brow game
Welcome to our online Henna Brows Training!
This course is accredited by ABT and is fully insurable.
This course is designed for those who already hold a brow shaping & tinting qualification,
who want to add henna brows to their treatment list.This online training will cover
everything from mapping, application, removal, kit and so much more!Our extensive
online theory allows you to watch us carry out the treatment, whilst explaining everything
that we are doing!You will need to complete two case studies to become a certified
henna brows stylist. You can do this through a live video call with one of our master
trainers, or you can come to our academy to complete our models, with us at hand to
guide you through the whole process.
This handbook is designed to condense all the information from the online theory into a
printable document.
welcome!
COURSE OVERVIEW
COURSE TITLE: advanced Bëbë henna brows
COURSE DURATION: 1.5hrs theory // 1.5hrs practical
COURSE FEE: £300 inc. Kit
PRE-REQUISITES: you must already be a qualified brow stylist who
has completed an accredited brow course including theory.
KIT CONTENTS: 5 x dyotics brow henna, roop charcoal mapping
thread, dyotics prep lotion, dyotics stain remover, dyotics angled
brush, bëbë flat brush, mapping cream
qualification: advanced Bëbë henna brows accredited certificate.
(abt accredited) This qualification will enable you to obtain public
liability insurance upon successful completion.
WHAT ARE HENNA BROWS?
Henna brows is a brow treatment that allows you to tint the hairs
and the skin of your client to create a temporary ‘tattoo effect’ on
their brows.
The results can last up to 2 weeks on the skin and 8 weeks on the
hairs depending on your clients skin type and how closely they
follow the aftercare!
The treatment should take 45-60 mins including shaping.
Although henna has much better ‘staying power’ than regular dye,
it is important to remember that it cannot create hairs where there
aren’t any. You can't add to eyebrows by dyeing them longer or
wider. In places where there is no hair at all, the henna does not
take and even if it does you'll see a lot of color difference
compared to spots where there is a lot of hair. Henna is not suited
to those with very oily skin. Unfortunately henna dye disappears
very quickly from this type of skin. You can spot this skin type if skin
is glossy and has large pores. The presence of very stiff eyebrow
hairs may also be an indicator of oily skin.
course overview
As you are already a qualified brow stylist you should already hold
insurance. Once you have trained in this treatment, you must
contact your insurer and add the ‘henna brows treatment’ to your
policy.
Patch testing is imperative to this treatment.
The key points are outlined as follows:
Always patch test any new client / any client who has never had
the henna brows treatment / any client who has not had the
henna brows treatment performed by yourself in the last 3
months. Henna is a different product to regular tint so a patch test
is always required atleast 48 hours before the treatment.
Patch test in an area that is visible to you and the client.
We advise the inside of the arm. This is a sensitive area of skin,
and it is easy to see if there has been any reaction.
Apply a small amount of mixed henna to the area and cover with
a plaster. If the client experiences any itching or redness in these
48 hours they must remove the patch test and inform you of a
reaction. Reactions to henna come in many forms and may not
result in itchiness but can also be a raised red mark. Always check
the patch tested area yourself if possible. If there is any form of
reaction, do not continue with the treatment.
The treatment is not suitable for women who are pregnant or
breastfeeding.
Always ensure your client completes a client consultation form.
This will ensure that you have all the correct up to date
information regarding your client, and also that the client has
signed to agree that they have had their patch test.
insurance | patch testing |
contraindications
KIT LIST
DYOTICS BROW HENNA X 5 – we recommend you have all 5 colours of the
dyotics henna. You are able to mix them if needed, for example adding ‘ash
brown’ to other colours can give an ashier result on the skin.
DYOTICS ROOP CHARCOAL THREAD – this thread is the best way to truly
map out the area you are going to be working within. It also helps to show the
client any inconsistencies between the two brows.
DYOTICS SKIN PREP LOTION – this oil free skin prep spray is perfect for
removing makeup and all oils from the clients skin. Any oils on the skin will impact
the result.
DYOTICS STAIN REMOVER – to be used after the treatment to neaten up any
areas and can also help with reducing warmth.
BËBË FLAT CONCEALER BRUSH – we use two! One for applying mapping
cream, one for applying our bëbë brows concealer after treatment.
MAPPING CREAM –
we use sudocrem as our mapping cream. It is thick, so it
helps to stop the henna ‘bleed’ and also its antiseptic properties help protect
freshly waxed skin
DYOTICS MRS HIGHBROW ANGLED BRUSH – we use this for applying the
henna neatly
MINI PIPETTE & SCOOP (PROVIDED IN EACH DYOTICS BROW HENNA) – to get
specific measurements for mixing henna
ALL KIT LISTED BELOW IS NOT INCLUDED IN YOUR KIT PROVIDED WITH THE COURSE. AS YOU
ARE ALREADY A TRAINED BROW STYLIST, YOU SHOULD HAVE MOST OF THE ITEMS LISTED
BELOW IN YOUR KIT.
GLASS SPICE DISH | DAPPEN DISH | BËBË BAE HAND SANITISER |
BËBË SPREAD LOVE CREME WAX | BËBË BAMBOO COTTON BUDS |
BËBË BAMBOO TINT STICKS | BËBË BAMBOO SPOOLIES |
BËBË BROWS CONCEALER
client colour selection
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - WHITE/GREY
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR HONEY/ASH BROWN
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - BLONDE
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR HONEY/TAUPE
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - RED
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR TAUPE/NATURAL BROWN
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - LIGHT BROWN
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR TAUPE/NATURAL BROWN
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - DARK BROWN
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR NATURAL BROWN/ASH BROWN
CLIENT HAIR COLOUR - BLACK/AFRO CARRIBEAN
RECOMMENDED HENNA COLOUR RAVEN
Henna can take to the hairs very quickly and can leave a more dramatic effect to
the clients hair/skin than regular tint can. Always remember to keep an eye on
the henna as it develops onto your
clients hair/skin if they are very fair.
TIMINGS :
5-10 minutes: remove the front after this time to achieve a nice ombre effect. Has
the color not caught properly after this time? Then apply a little more henna and
remove it along with the rest.
5-10 minutes: in case of very light, porous eyebrow hairs. The color absorbs
quickly and darkens quickly. Even honey.
10-15 minutes: when someone is treated with henna for the first time or when
someone don't want to have the eyebrows too dark.
15-20 minutes: the best leave-in time for people with a dry to normal skin type.
20-30 minutes: if someone has fairly oily skin, if someone really wants them to be
prep & shape
First, sanitise your hands using your antibacterial hand sanitiser. We also
recommend using gloves to apply the henna. Cleanse the skin using a non
oily makeup remover. We use the dyotics skin prep lotion. Make sure you
give them a really good cleanse to remove any oils and dirt from the skin
and the brow hairs. Make sure to dry the area after using a dry cotton round
to prevent the henna from not sticking to the skin. This will help achieve a
flawless stain to the skin. Brush the brow hairs into their natural state, ready
for mapping out. We recommend mixing the henna atleast five minutes
before applying it, this will help to allow the henna to oxidise and prevent a
greenish glow being left on the skin. We mix the henna before waxing to
give the henna enough time to oxidise. Brush the brow hairs into their
natural state, ready for shaping and mapping.
As shown in our set up, we recommend using a glass spice dish to fill with
the tap water. This will save you going back and forth to the sink, and so
that you have it ready to hand. After choosing the clients desired shade, we
would use 2 scoops of the henna powder, to 3 pipettes of the tap water.
Give this a good mix. It should be gritty but glossy. You can achieve a
consistency that makes it easy to spread onto the brows. Add more water if
necessary.
We wax the brows first as this helps us to achieve a neater application with
the henna. If your clients brows are overgrown, this can cause the henna
stain to look uneven and messy on the skin. After waxing, wipe over the
brow with the dyotics prep spray to remove any wax left over on the skin.
We then recommend using the roop by dyotics charcoal mapping thread.
To start, we map from the corner of the nose up to the corner of the eye-
lashes, to the tail of the brow. This will determine where the brow should
end. Then we would map from the bridge of the nose, straight up to the
start of the nose. This will determine where the brow should start. We would
then determine the arch by mapping from the corner of the nose, through
the corner of the pupil. You would then repeat this on both sides. Mapping
out is a great way to show your client any imbalances they may have. We
also recommend showing these imbalances to the client so that they are
aware. It is important that you show them before applying the henna, so
they know that it is not something that you have caused, as henna stains
the skin it can highlight these imbalances. Remember though, eyebrows are
meant to be sisters, not twins! We then check the balance of the brow by
holding the thread across from one base of the brow to the other. We then
repeat that above. You can also use the thread to create a shape to the
brow to help create a guide when applying the mapping cream. We advise
you stay as close to the brow as possible with these lines. The mapping
thread can leave marks across the face. We remove these using a cotton
bud and some makeup remover. Once you are happy with this shape, we
will continue to map using our mapping cream. We use sudocrem as our
mapping cream, as it is a great barrier cream that is is effective but also
has antiseptic properties so helps to protect the skin and is safe for after
waxing. The mapping cream will prevent the henna from staining unwanted
areas of skin. We apply the mapping cream using our bëbë brows flat con-
cealer brush. Think of the cream as your guideline. It needs to be as neat as
possible and as close to the brow hairs as you can get. There is no point in
staining henna outside of the natural brow shape as it will not last effective-
ly, and may not even take to the skin at all.
mapping out
Apply the already mixed henna to the tail of the brow. We always start at
the tail of the brow as this is naturally the darkest and boldest part. Pat the
henna onto the skin aswell as the hairs, making sure the area is completely
covered. Once you have completed the first brow, set the timer for 5 min-
utes. Then repeat the application on the other brow. Once you have finished
the application, neaten around the edges of the brows using a cotton bud.
Once the five minutes has passed, remove the front of the brow using a
damp cotton bud. We use a damp cotton bud as this stops the henna from
developing any further, but allows for an ombre effect to begin. Leave for
longer than 5 minutes if your client desires a bolder finish. Don’t forget to set
the timer for another 5 minutes for the rest of the brow. We then recom-
mend cleaning up the sudocrem around the brow using damp cotton pad.
Now you have completed the henna application, we recommend tidying up
the brows using tweezers to remove any stray hairs. We then use our bëbë
brows mineral based foundation powder to cover any redness. This mineral
based powder is safe for after waxing. We would then conceal under the
brows to crisp up the henna using our bëbë brows concealer. This helps to
get a great finish, especially for photos!.
application
removal
finishing touches
After the second 5 minutes, we remove brow number 2’s front using a wet
cotton bud. We would then remove brow number 1’s henna using wet cotton
pads. If your clent desires a deeper darker stain, you can leave the henna
on for up to 20 minutes. If you start to remove and find the stain isn't dark
enough, dont be afraid to reapply to that area and leave on for slightly
longer. Sometimes, the henna can look slightly warm toned. This is normal,
and will look different once oxidised slightly more. Set the timer again for 5
more final minutes. After this timer has finished, we would then remove
brow number 2 using damp cotton pads. Don’t be afraid to give the brow a
good rub using the damp cotton pads to make sure that all the henna has
been removed. If you feel the henna looks slightly too dark, use the dyotics
stain remover on a cotton pad and wipe over the brows.
You must make sure that aftercare is explained clearly to each and every
client. Without the correct aftercare the brows may fade quickly, lose shape
and or cause irritations. In order to achieve the perfect bëbë henna brows
the client must follow the aftercare advice. We recommend giving the client
a printed aftercare leaflet for them to follow. During the aftercare discussion
make sure you give the client plenty of opportunity to ask any questions
they may have.
1. avoid exposure to the sun/sunbeds
2. no fake tan
3. avoid touching/rubbing/scratching the area as this may cause infection
4. avoid wearing makeup, or applying products to the area for the next 24
hours
5. no swimming for the next 24 hours
6. avoid excessive heat such as sauna’s and steam rooms
6. avoid use of any oil-based cleansers around the eye area
7. avoid hot showers or baths and using perfumed products for the next 24
hours
8. if any adverse reactions occur seek medical advice from your gp
9. we recommend approximately 4-6 weeks maximum between treat-
ments.
10. anything picked up by yourself, for example any reactions or severe red-
ness Should be noted on the client card for future reference.
11. during the aftercare this also gives you the opportunity to sell product
that will Help the client maintain good brows or to possibly help with growth.
aftercare
1. Cleanse & dry the brow area
2. Mix the henna! Use roughly 2 scoops of henna to 3 pipettes of
water
3. Shape the brow using brow hair removal technique
4. Map out using inked thread
5. Use barrier mapping cream to map application area
6. Start to apply henna, starting from the tail.
7. Once full area covered with henna, set timer for 5 mins.
8. Using same application method as before, apply henna to
second brow. You can also use a cotton bud to neaten up around
the brow at this point.
9. After 5 mins has passed, remove front of first brow using a wet
cotton bud. Then set timer for a further 5 minutes.
10. Start to neaten up the mapping cream using a dry cotton pad.
11. After 5 mins has passed, using a wet cotton bud, remove the
front of the second brow. At this point you can remove the first
brow if it has stained the skin sufficiently. If your client desires a
deeper stain, leave for a further few minutes. Remember to set a
final timer for 5 minutes to check on the second brow.
12. After 5 minutes (or longer if neccessary) remove the second
brow using a wet cotton round.
13. Tidy up any hairs if needed using tweezers
you can now apply makeup to cover any redness/concealer to
crisp the brow up if your client desires!
step by step
The Brow Academy, arras street, sheffield
s9 3jl
We hope you enjoyed attending the Bëbë Henna
Brows course and go on to have a
successful career.
Remember we are here for you!
Thank you and good luck!!!!
